(Images from Vogue Runway, L-R: Gucci, Fausto Puglisi, No. 21, Jil Sander, Attico)
GUCCI: A sensation for the eyes, Alessandro Michele’s SS18 catwalk show did not disappoint. Taking place in Gucci’s own HQ, there were aspects of Egypt, Ancient Rome and the Aztec Empire – streetlights were added to give a more contemporary and urban touch. Many of his whopping 108 looks were influenced by Sir Elton John, the diamond encrusted visors in particular you could imagine him wearing. The visual feast of mink cuffs, wooden beads, harlequin checks, sequins upon sequins, and plenty of bows meant there was some antique and some modern – something for everyone.
FAUSTO PUGLISI: Recognised for his high spirits and fun nature, this Spring Fausto Puglisi took a more serene and calmer course. It was far less in-your-face, and showed that he was altering his glam aesthetic for our more paired down time. There was a lot of black and white, dresses with feminine prints and elegant silhouettes that were low-cut yet accentuated at the shoulders and hips.
No. 21: For SS18, Alessandro Dell’Acquia paid tribute to himself and remodelled some looks from his original archives to wed with No.21’s character. There were contemporary pieces, yet they were updated with No. 21’s trademark feminine style and now included sports luxe references. No. 21 played with elaborate fabrics and textures, as parkas were made in leather and pink looks were highlighted with glistening sequins. A new energy was infused into the typical sensual appearance, and Dell’Acqua has confirmed that some of his earliest ideas continue to be his most celebrated.
JIL SANDER: The Sander infamous aesthetic paid homage to Jil this SS18 season, the new design duo keeping in tune with the brand’s DNA. It was soft and sensual with a colour palette of navy, white and black with suits that had slender shoulders and razor-sharp creases, plus the sporadic cut seam to heighten interest. The namesake white shirt was more voluminous with puffed sleeves buttoned up to the collar, and there were clean lines/cuts everywhere. Attention to detail was clear to see, and my favourite look was the black dress with compelling techniques (pictured above) – simplicity but of the utmost excellence.
ATTICO: Intense rainbow colour palettes with sequins and feathers were displayed on joyous frocks and glam separates at Attico, a Seventies-inspired dreamlike vision. Red satin pumps that would make even Dorothy in Oz jealous, the hypnotic and charming retro world of Attico is one I would consider getting myself lost in. Ladylike silhouettes and aged embroideries make these nostalgic clothes fit right in to the 21st century.
(Images from Vogue Runway, L-R: Alberta Ferretti, DSquared2, Giamba, Bally, Versace)
ALBERTA FERRETTI: Designers across the globe seems be embracing change this season, Ferretti being no exception. Breaking out of their Grecian-goddess comfort zone, the celestial silhouettes have been subdued and made more minimal. Sherberty shades of lilac, blue and mint green featured alongside all black one piece swimsuits, floor-length dresses, and khaki/cream utilitarian looks. Ferretti was contemplating change this season, and that may be a good thing.
DSQUARED2: You can always count on the Caten twins for a sensational and camp show. A collection exploding with prints and textures; DSquared2’s capability to bring together the theatrical side of fashion with luxury is unbeatable – SS18’s energetic offering had my head spinning. Dean and Dan Catens second co-ed season saw models stride down the runway in biker jackets and leather pants, Hawaiian shirts, pieces decorated with buckles and floor-length tulle skirts. Badges and neckerchiefs hardened the womenswear offering, which still felt feminine and racy. This delectable mix of flavours works for now.
GIAMBA: A cool Brooklyn girl who is both romantic and rock ‘n’ roll, this collection indeed displayed a functional and well-rounded wardrobe, saturated with glamour and girlishness. Ruffled denim, swishy blouses, flared miniskirts and patchwork floral prints signal old but the mix of sequins, boho broderie, and jersey items most definitely made this offering from Giamba nothing but new new new.
BALLY: A new beginning for Bally, they kept it to the point, united and, most of all, very vey cool for SS18. The desirable outerwear offering featured gorgeous teddy bear shearling coats worn with cashmere-blend tracksuits in the colour of the moment – burgundy. Outfits that we can actually wear this collection marked a new direction for Bally: more modern, realistic yet still luxury.
VERSACE: The show of MFW SS18 without a shadow of a doubt went to Versace. In honour of the late Gianni Versace, this end-of-show presentation featuring some of Gianni’s favourite supermodels of the 90’s was a tribute marking the 20th anniversary of his passing. Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford and Helena Christensen closed the show at Versace and its safe to say we all went crazy for it. Figure-hugging, slip-like gold thigh-high cut gowns reminded the audience what a true supermodel really looks like… They definitely have not lost it, and we could all learn a thing or two.
What did you think of MFW and my round-up?
Hope you enjoyed my penultimate SS18 catwalk reviews – stayed tuned for last but not least… PFW!