PFW SS18 ROUND-UP

(Images from Vogue Runway, L-R: Rodarte, Provenza Schouler, Olivier Theyskens, Kenzo, Saint Laurent)

RODARTE: Rodarte have always faced difficulty when attempting to convert their otherwordly look into wearable clothes for modern women, but their SS18 collection incorporated tulle dresses and separates with leather motocross jackets and jumpsuits that any millennial would want to wear. For every dainty piece, tiered ruffle, and billowing camisole; there was a leather/snakeskin boot to toughen up the typically dreamy looks – charming yet ominous.

PROENZA SCHOULER: Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are the Atlantic-crossing duo have who’ve said au revoir to NYFW and crossed the pond to Paris, bringing together their pre-season and runway lines to boost sales and expand their global reputation. A dressed-up but nonchalant demeanour, the design duo overlayed unlikely components such as ruffles and lace with hook-and-eye closures hanging asymmetrically across boudoir style see-through dresses. Making clothes that appeal to a customers beyond just the fashion folk, many of Proenza’s trademark themes are now interpreted with a lighter touch. Savvy chic always.

OLIVIER THEYSKENS: Who doesn’t crave a new and wearable wardrobe? A colour palette of “the blackest of blacks and the whitest of whites” broken up by nude and blush tones, Theyskens showed modern twists on collections past. This is only the third season of Olivier’s rejuvenated line, the dark and mysterious met with a structured lingerie style dress in a black silk has my name all over it.

KENZO: Fashion isn’t known for being the best at diverse representation when it comes to race, which is why Humberto Leon and Carol Lim of Kenzo sending out an all-Asian cast at their SS18 catwalk show in Paris was a big step forward. It isn’t always about black and white, and Kenzo’s showing of beauty, adoration and admiration moved the fashion crowd who were closely watching. Restoring their place as the patriots of cool, the clothes came down the runway in primary and pastel colours decorated in sequins and sashaying arrays of fabric – don’t we all want to be part of the Kenzo crew?

SAINT LAURENT: Just a few weeks since one of the forefathers of Saint Laurent passed, Anthony Vaccarello created a catwalk extravaganza that was a worthy tribute full of pieces from the brands illustrious legacy. “That girl of Saint Laurent—she wants to have fun,” said Vaccarello, and what better place to do it than on a pleasant night with the Eiffel Tower twinkling away in the background. High-octane sexiness mixed in with a luxe boho vibe that signalled the brands Marrakech inspired days, there were legs for as far as the eye could see. Silky feathers, billowy-sleeved vinyl dresses, decadent power shoulder dinner jackets, and the shortest of shorts – these were themes contrived by Saint Laurent through the duration of his career and heightened for the party girls of today.

 

(Images from Vogue Runway, L-R: Celine, Christian Dior, Off-White, Filles à Papa, Chloé)

CELINE: “I wanted it to look optimistic,” said a cheerful Phoebe Philo of her collection, playing to the upbeat sound of Mary J. Blige’s singing ‘You Bring Me Joy’. Two coats are better than one, says Celine. Step forward the new ‘double trench’ – two coats in one that are joined at the hem, with a cape-like outer layer worn over a more tailored coat. The shape came from experimentation and customisation, which then moved onto morphing jackets and dresses into one fluid piece. Boxy cropped jackets, pleated pants, voluptuous white lace dresses and brushstroke-printed turtlenecks came next and added to the lustworthy showcase. Noble product in glorious tonal fabrics make these shapes easy to wear, this new look a statement to behold.

CHRISTIAN DIOR: Maria Grazia Churi is a woman on a mission, a mission to instill her sisterhood principles into the force that is Christian Dior. Being overhauled so its more readily available to younger clientele, the mythical fantasy had 70’s patchwork jeans, sparkly see-through dresses and skirts and black trouser suits for every women. A mix of streetwear and high fashion, my favourite look was the dinosaur black mesh sweatshirt with a bejewelled floor-length skirt – with underwear on show of course. This is a new Dior that I can get on board with.

OFF-WHITE: Princess Diana, a muse to us all, was the inspiration behind Off-White’s SS18 collection. This graceful tribute turned modernised catwalk spectacle celebrates her notable and historic fashion archive, remixing the late princesses wardrobe to crate a new ultramodern style. Getting creative with paired back styles, this innovative show intertwined the beauty and style of the Diana era into casual contemporary streetwear. My favourite was the silk fuchsia dress with white spots and pearls draped around the neck – have we found a look fit for a modern day princess?

FILLES À PAPA: A silky golden dress with an exposed midriff, a checked shirt with sequins tied around the waist, a denim jacket/blazer shrugged lazily off the shoulders, with a baseball cap, fishnet socks and sliders to complete the look – this is me all over. This contemporary collection was influenced by plastic tropics and karaoke culture, and fits right in to the 21st century.

CHLOÉ: Chloe began a fresh chapter this season in Paris, their SS18 show being held at the new Chloé Maison on Paris’s Rue de la Baume. New Creative Director Natacha Ramsay-Levi drew on the happy-go-lucky ladylike aesthetic on which the house was built, and designed clothes that “stayed true to the independent and intellectual spirit of Gaby Aghion”. A new move for the house of Chloé, in came girls with attitude and a street smart demeanour. The cool-girl tailoring on the horse-print corduroy suit was a bold move, but one that worked.

 

I hope you enjoyed my Spring Summer 2018 fashion month coverage – let me know if your interested in seeing this type of content on my site more regularly!

JP x

 

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